This article is an edited down version of our downloadable tutorial 'How to Make the Folded Fan Origami Book' by Margaret Woods.
The Blizzard Book
This decorative origami-style book uses Hedi Kyle's unconventional 'blizzard' binding. The original design relies on the folded strength of paper such as Tyvek. My instructions for supporting the binding enable the use of the other papers, thus making the book more versatile. This version has a soft cover.
Please read through all instructions, then TEST-FOLD the binding using spare paper. Bear in mind that different paper behaves differently. The thickness ofthe paper will make a difference to the end result. Use scrap or waxed paper to protect pages and binding from excess glue.
Materials and Tools
- Card for 14 pages of 9.5 x 9.5cm
- 1 sheet of A1 paper for the binding. You will only use 1/3 plus some scraps.
- 1 metre of thin cord or ribbon to tie the book (optional)
- Cover card. Enough to cut a piece 42cm x 10cm or the chosen designer cover
Equipment
- Pencil
- Metal ruler
- Craft knife & cutting mat
- PVA glue
- Glue Brush or spreader
- Scrap paper, preferably waxed and heavy weight
- A piece of mull or calico 14cm x 5cm (optional)
- Bone folder (optional)
- Hole punch (optional)
Preparing the Spine Binding
fig 1
- Using a knife and cutting mat, cut a long strip from a sheet of A1 paper so that you have a rectangle measuring 84cm x 19.9cm. fig 1
fig 2
- Fold the strip of paper into a 16-part concertina following fig 2. The red lines represent 'mountain' folds and the blue lines 'valley' folds.
Preparing the Spine Binding
fig 3
- Once folded, your paper will look rather like fig 3.
fig 4
- Close the concertina as shown in fig 4.
Folding the Corners
- Lay down the concertina with all folds to the left and a cut side to the right.
fig 5
- Gently fold over the corner as shown in fig 5.
- Fold so the edge is 1-2mm away from the vertical fold, but not too close or the binding will tear.
- Crease softly as you may wish to adjust the fold slightly later.
Preparing the Spine Binding
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fig 6 - after 2 folds at the top |
fig 7 - all the folds done |
- Turning the paper like the leaf of a book, continue folding all the corners, opening and closing the concertina as you go. Figs.6 and 7
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fig 8 - after a fold at the top and bottom |
fig 9 - all the folds done |
Reversing the Folds
fig 10 - the mountain and valley folds
- Once the corners have been folded, you will need to reverse alternate folds on the triangles. To do this, unfold the triangles and refold them according to fig 10.
fig 11 - the paper undone
- Lightly compress the concertina with its new fold pattern. It will look similar to fig 11.
Creating the Pockets for the Loose-Leaf Pages
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fig 12 |
fig 13 |
fig 14 |
fig 15 |
- Lay down the concertina with the folded edges to the left, as in fig 12. Unfold the first vertical fold towards the left as if you were turning the leaf of a book - fig 13.
- Fold point A downwards and crease horizontally from B to C - fig 14.
- Repeat the folding in reverse at the bottom edge - fig 15.
fig 16
- now turn over another section and repeat the procedure until all the pockets have been folded - fig 16.
- 'Bone' once you are happy with the folding.
- Take especial care as the unsupported binding could tear.
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fig 17 - the spine binding open |
fig 18 |
- You should have 9 pocket pieces radiating from the centre as shown in fig 17.
- This is a springy binding, enabling the book to stand up by itself and be displayed open if desired.
- To reduce springiness at any point in the construction, close and leave under a heavy weight for a few hours.
Making the Loose-Leaf Pages
- Cut 14 squares of card, each one 9.5cm x 9.5cm.
- Slip them into the pockets keeping the grain vertical.
- It is important to do this before the next stage or the pockets may be too tight. fig 18 shows the book with the pockets inserted.
Supporting the Binding
- Unless I am using very strong paper, I like to support this binding before covering. This is just one method.
- Close the spine binding and secure with a rubber band or string tied.
fig 19
- Use a brush to push some glue in between the folds at the top and bottom - fig 19.
- If you want a 'window' in your cover to expose the spine folds, you need to make sure the glue does not go too far down the spine. Leave to dry.
- Cut 2 strips of paper, the same colour as the binding, each 2.5cm x 13.5cm long.
- For extra strength, use strips of mull covered in paper.
- Glue each strip of paper/mull across the spine at the head and tail and across the back fig 20.
- Protect the pages from glue using scrap paper.
- Trim off any excess paper. Leave to dry with the book closed - fig 21.
Making the Cover
fig 22
- Measure the height of the spine (about 10m). Using decorative card if desired, cut a rectangle of 42 cm x the exact height of the spine.
- If you are using the designer cover, print and assemble.
- Using the measurements in fig 22, mark out the lines on the back.
- If you would like a window in the spine, Cut out the central rectangle.
- Cut off the corners as shown.
- Using your bone folder, score the vertical lines and valley fold.
If you are using thin card, you might like to line the cover. If so, cut another piece of card the same size. Starting at the spine duplicate the folds, holding the lining inside and against the cover. Quickly brush glue on either piece of card and stick together, keeping the cover semi-folded. You will then need to trim the ends. If this seems a bit daunting, don't glue the layers together.
Finishing the Book
fig 23
- Tuck the ends of the cover into the first packet as shown in fig 23.
You may wish to tie the book with a ribbon or cord. In this case pierce a small hole just inside the fold at each foredge. Thread through the cord and either glue or knot inside. Thread a bead or two on each cord or ribbon if desired. I like to make paper beads matching the cover.
The full version of this tutorial including additional images, a glossary and information on paper grain direction may be purchased and downloaded from our web site here:
www.hewitonline.com/category_s/97.htm
There are also 8 other excellent tutorials in this series, all of which can be purchased from the same location.